Meta description: Learn what 117 double teardrop siding is, how to identify its profile, where it works, and what to check before ordering or installing replacement boards.
When a home has distinctive horizontal wood siding, replacing a damaged board can take more than matching its width. The shape of the face, the way boards overlap, and the profile number all matter. 117 double teardrop siding is a profile name used for a decorative siding pattern with two rounded, teardrop-like contours. Because profile labels and dimensions can vary among mills and suppliers, accurate measurement and a physical sample are important before ordering. This guide explains how to identify the style, compare replacement options, and plan a durable installation.
What Is 117 Double Teardrop Siding?
Double teardrop siding is a horizontal wood siding profile with two curved details formed along the exposed face of each board. The curves create a repeated decorative shadow line across the wall. The “117” designation is a product or pattern identifier—not a universal building-code term or a guarantee of exact dimensions across manufacturers.
In some supplier catalogs, a number such as 117 identifies a particular millwork pattern. Another mill may use a different number for a similar shape, or use 117 for a profile with slightly different dimensions. For that reason, the number alone is not enough to establish a match. A profile drawing, actual board sample, or careful measurements of an existing piece are more dependable.
The name may also be written as “double-teardrop siding,” “double teardrop novelty siding,” or simply “teardrop siding.” Those terms can describe related shapes rather than one standardized profile. When searching catalogs, homeowners and contractors may need to compare the actual cross section rather than rely on wording alone.
How to Recognize the Profile
The most reliable way to identify 117 double teardrop siding is to examine the face and edge of a board. The face typically has two repeated rounded or tapered decorative contours. Its edges are shaped so adjoining courses overlap or fit together, helping create a continuous horizontal pattern while directing water outward.
Look at an intact board rather than a badly weathered section. Paint buildup, sanding, rot, and repeated repairs can soften or obscure the details. If the building has multiple siding layers, a profile may be visible at a window, corner, or area where a board has been removed, but investigation should avoid damaging historic material.
- Face profile: Note the number, depth, and shape of the raised or recessed curves.
- Exposed face: Measure the portion visible after the next course overlaps it.
- Overall width: Measure the full board, including concealed or interlocking edges.
- Thickness: Check the thickest point and the edge thickness.
- Joint design: Record whether the board has a rabbet, tongue-and-groove edge, bevel, or another overlap.
- Condition: Look for cupping, split edges, rot, or old repairs that may distort measurements.
A clear photograph of the face and end of a board, placed beside a ruler, can help a lumber supplier assess the pattern. For a close match, a short physical sample is usually better than a photograph because it shows the full cross section.
Where Double Teardrop Siding Is Used
Decorative horizontal siding appears on many types of residential buildings, including older houses, additions, garages, and outbuildings. A double teardrop profile can provide more shadow and visual detail than plain boards, making it useful where a building’s exterior design depends on a distinctive repeating pattern.
For a repair or addition, matching the existing siding can preserve the appearance of the wall. On an older home, the profile may be part of its architectural character. Replacing it with a generic lap siding profile can change the scale of the shadow lines, the width of each course, and the way trim meets the wall.
That does not mean every existing board must be reproduced exactly in every project. Building condition, budget, local requirements, and the extent of the work all matter. On a historic property, owners should check local preservation requirements before removing or altering character-defining exterior details. For ordinary repairs, a mill or specialty lumberyard may be able to produce a custom match if the original profile is no longer stocked.
Materials and Product Options
Wood is the traditional material for many decorative siding profiles. Depending on regional availability and the supplier’s capabilities, replacement boards may be offered in species such as pine, cedar, or other suitable exterior woods. Each species has different appearance, workability, durability, and maintenance characteristics. The correct choice depends on exposure, finish, local practice, and the product’s intended use.
Some manufacturers may offer related profiles in engineered wood or other materials, but an exact 117 double teardrop match may not be available in every material. A substitute should be checked for profile, thickness, fastening method, and compatibility with surrounding siding and trim. A profile that looks similar from the street may not fit correctly at the edges or maintain the same reveal.
Before choosing a product, ask the supplier for its written specifications. Confirm the actual finished dimensions, recommended exposure, grade, moisture condition, permitted applications, and finishing requirements. If a product is intended for exterior use, follow its manufacturer’s instructions for storage, installation, and coating.
How to Measure and Order Replacement Boards
Accurate ordering starts with the existing siding, not the catalog label. Measure several undamaged boards because older construction can have small variations, and replacement work may include boards from different repair periods. Record the dimensions in inches and identify which measurement is the full board width and which is the visible exposure.
- Find an intact section. Select a board with a clear face and undamaged edges.
- Measure the profile. Record total width, thickness, exposed face, and edge details.
- Photograph the cross section. Include a ruler and take a straight-on image of the end.
- Check the installation orientation. Note which edge is up and how each course overlaps.
- Contact specialty suppliers. Ask whether they stock the profile, can match it, or can mill a custom pattern.
- Request a sample. Test the sample against the existing courses and trim before placing a large order.
Also ask about minimum order quantities, lead times, board lengths, and whether custom milling requires a setup charge. For a small repair, it may be economical to replace a larger continuous section rather than create several short patches, but the best approach depends on the wall layout and condition.
Installation Considerations
Installation details vary with the siding material, building design, and manufacturer’s instructions. The following points are general planning considerations, not a substitute for product-specific instructions or local code requirements.
Prepare the Wall
Before new siding goes on, the wall assembly should be checked for water damage, damaged sheathing, and failed flashing. Siding is part of the exterior cladding, but it is not a replacement for a properly designed water-resistive barrier and flashing system. Window, door, roof, and corner details need to direct water away from the wall rather than trap it behind the boards.
Existing siding should not simply be covered if doing so would conceal active moisture problems or create an unsuitable wall assembly. If the project involves multiple layers, unusual conditions, or visible rot, a qualified contractor can help assess the wall before repairs proceed.
Install Courses Consistently
Double teardrop siding depends on even alignment: inconsistent exposure can make the decorative lines look irregular. Establish a level starting course and check the layout frequently as work continues. Follow the product’s specified fastening locations and fastener type. Fasteners that are too close to edges, driven too deeply, or installed in the wrong location can contribute to splitting or movement.
Wood siding expands and contracts as its moisture content changes. Follow the supplier’s guidance for spacing, end joints, and acclimation. End cuts and other exposed areas may need treatment or coating as directed by the product manufacturer. The siding should not be forced tightly into locations where movement is expected.
Protect Edges and Transitions
Careful flashing and trim work is important around windows, doors, outside corners, and roof-wall intersections. Water can enter at these transitions even when the face of the siding is in good condition. The siding profile also needs to meet trim in a way that allows water to drain and avoids exposed end grain where possible.
For extensive work, a professional familiar with wood siding and moisture management can help coordinate the profile, flashing, and finish. Local building departments may have requirements that apply to exterior alterations, especially when the project includes structural repairs or changes to the wall assembly.
Finishing and Maintenance
Finish requirements depend on the wood species and whether the boards arrive bare, primed, or factory finished. Follow the supplier’s instructions rather than assuming all products take the same coating. A compatible exterior paint or stain can help protect wood from sunlight and moisture, but a coating cannot compensate for poor drainage or leaking flashing.
Inspect the siding periodically, especially after severe weather and near areas where water collects. Check for peeling paint, open joints, soft or discolored wood, loose boards, and failed sealant at appropriate transitions. Address the source of moisture before repainting or replacing boards. Prompt repairs can prevent a localized problem from spreading into adjacent courses or the wall behind them.
Maintenance intervals vary with exposure, climate, wood species, and coating quality. Walls with strong sun, wind-driven rain, or limited eaves may need closer attention than sheltered walls. Product and paint manufacturers’ recommendations are the best guide for cleaning, recoating, and repair.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Ordering by “117” alone: Profile numbering is not necessarily standardized across suppliers.
- Measuring only the visible face: Hidden edges and total thickness determine whether a board fits.
- Choosing a look-alike without checking the joint: A similar face profile may have incompatible edges or exposure.
- Ignoring moisture problems: New siding will not correct failed flashing, leaks, or damaged sheathing.
- Assuming every board is identical: Older homes can include handmade boards or repairs from different periods.
- Skipping a sample fit: A sample can reveal mismatches before a full order is placed.
Questions to Ask a Siding Supplier
Clear questions help confirm whether a supplier’s product is a true match or simply a similar decorative profile. Providing photographs and measurements can make the conversation more productive.
- Does the product have two teardrop details, and can the supplier provide a profile drawing?
- What are the full dimensions and recommended exposure?
- Is the product stocked, or will it need custom milling?
- Which wood species and grades are available?
- What are the minimum order, lead time, and available board lengths?
- What finishing, fastening, and installation instructions apply?
- Can the supplier mill a sample before the full order is approved?
For homeowners searching for 117 double teardrop siding, the key is to treat the number as a useful search term, not definitive proof of a match. The profile’s cross section, finished dimensions, exposure, and edge connection determine whether replacement boards will fit and preserve the wall’s appearance. A measured sample and supplier confirmation can prevent costly ordering errors.