Installing cedar shingles on a gable end can give a house a durable, textured exterior, but the sloping wall shape calls for careful layout and cutting. The key is to treat the gable as a wall-cladding project—not a roofing project—and follow the shingle manufacturer’s requirements for exposure, fastening, underlayment, and ventilation. With a sound wall assembly, accurate starter courses, and well-fitted rake edges, the shingles can shed water while creating a clean finish along the roofline.
What to Know Before Starting
Cedar shingles are thin, sawn wood pieces installed in overlapping courses. On a gable end, they cover a vertical wall that tapers toward the ridge. This is different from applying cedar shingles to a roof, where slope, underlayment, and fastening requirements are governed by roofing guidance. Wall shingles need a water-resistive barrier and properly detailed openings and edges; they should not be installed using roofing instructions alone.
Shingle dimensions, grade, and intended use vary. Some products are designed for sidewall exposure, while others may be intended for roofing or for a specific installation system. Before buying materials, check the product’s installation instructions and confirm that the shingles are approved for exterior wall use. Local building codes and permit requirements may also apply.
In the United States, the International Residential Code (IRC) provides model-code provisions for wood shingle and shake installation, but the locally adopted code and amendments control. The Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau (CSSB) publishes installation guidance for cedar products. Use the current product instructions and local requirements whenever they differ from general guidance.
Tools and Materials
Prepare the work area and gather materials before installation. A typical project may require:
- Exterior-rated cedar wall shingles, with enough extra for cuts and defects
- Water-resistive barrier (WRB) and compatible flashing materials
- Corrosion-resistant siding nails, typically stainless steel or hot-dipped galvanized, as specified by the manufacturer
- Shingle undercourse or starter material, where required by the product instructions
- Measuring tape, chalk line, level, square, and a story pole or exposure gauge
- Shingle hatchet, utility knife, handsaw, or circular saw with a suitable blade
- Hammer or nailer approved for the fasteners and product
- Eye and hearing protection, gloves, and a stable scaffold or ladder setup
Use fasteners intended for exterior cedar siding. Ordinary steel fasteners can corrode and stain the wood; some metals can also react with cedar extractives. Check the shingle manufacturer’s requirements for fastener type, length, placement, and quantity. A pneumatic nailer should be adjusted so that fasteners seat properly without crushing the shingle or driving through it.
Inspect and Prepare the Gable Wall
Start with a dry, stable, and reasonably flat wall. Repair damaged sheathing, loose framing, rot, and existing water intrusion before covering the surface. Shingles do not correct a leaking wall. Confirm that the roof, gutters, and adjacent trim direct water away from the gable rather than behind the siding.
Install a continuous WRB over the sheathing, lapping it in shingle fashion so upper layers drain over lower layers. Tape or seal seams only as directed by the WRB manufacturer. Integrate the WRB with window and door flashing, roof-wall transitions, and any other penetrations. Flashing details should direct water to the exterior face of the WRB, not trap it behind the shingles.
Consider a rainscreen gap where required by code, recommended by the product instructions, or appropriate for the climate and wall design. A rainscreen creates a drainage and drying space behind the siding, often with furring strips or a drainage mat. It must be detailed so the cavity can drain, while openings are protected against insects as appropriate. Whether a rainscreen is required depends on the assembly, local code, and exposure conditions.
Check the wall for square and establish reference lines before installing shingles. Gable framing, eaves, and ridge boards may not be perfectly level or centered. Measure the gable’s width at several heights and locate the centerline. A vertical centerline helps balance the pattern, but the actual layout may need adjustment to avoid narrow pieces at the rake edges.
Plan the Exposure and Course Layout
Exposure is the visible portion of each shingle after the next course overlaps it. The correct exposure depends on shingle length, product grade, wall application, local weather, and manufacturer instructions. Do not assume a familiar roofing exposure is suitable for a gable wall. Excessive exposure reduces overlap and can increase the chance of water reaching the wall; too little exposure uses more material and can affect appearance.
Use a story pole to mark the planned course spacing. This is a simple straightedge marked with each course line, helping keep spacing consistent as the work progresses. If the exposure does not divide evenly into the height of the gable, adjust the layout across several courses rather than leaving a very short course at the ridge or a conspicuously wide gap at the bottom.
Plan for the gable’s narrowing shape. At each course, measure the distance from the centerline to both rake edges. Dry-lay a few shingles or mark the course ends on a layout sketch. This shows whether full shingles can be centered and whether the rake cuts will leave adequate-width pieces. Avoid narrow slivers, which can be difficult to fasten and more vulnerable to splitting.
Install the Starter Course
Follow the manufacturer’s detail for the bottom edge of the wall. A starter course may use a doubled layer, a specially prepared undercourse, or another specified arrangement to create the correct angle and coverage at the first visible course. The bottom edge should be positioned to shed water clear of the trim or flashing below, without blocking drainage paths.
Check that the starter is straight and level. A small error at the first course becomes more noticeable as it carries upward toward the gable peak. Use a level or chalk line, and verify the planned exposure before fastening. Keep the shingle ends aligned with the layout marks, while allowing for any spacing required by the product instructions.
Apply the Cedar Shingles
Work from the bottom upward, completing one course at a time. Arrange shingles so joints are staggered and do not line up with joints in the course below. Avoid placing a joint directly over a joint from the previous course; the required separation depends on the product guidance. Staggering reduces direct paths for water and creates a more even appearance.
Leave the gap between adjacent shingles specified by the manufacturer. Cedar naturally expands and contracts with moisture, so tightly butted edges can buckle or split. The correct spacing varies with shingle type and installation conditions; use the product instructions instead of relying on a universal measurement.
Fasten each shingle in the locations and with the number of nails specified for the product and exposure. Fasteners should be placed far enough from the edges and butt to avoid splitting, yet positioned so the next course covers them. Drive nails flush, not deeply into the wood. An overdriven nail can reduce holding strength or damage the shingle; a proud nail can interfere with the course above.
Use shingles of appropriate width and quality for the course. Set aside pieces that are broken, badly split, or unsuitable for exposed areas. As the wall narrows, trim shingles to follow the rake while maintaining the planned overlap. Cut edges should be clean, and the remaining piece must be wide enough to fasten securely according to the product instructions.
Cut and Finish the Sloping Rake Edges
The rake is the sloped edge of the gable. Each course usually needs shingles cut to fit this line. Measure the rake angle or use a bevel gauge to transfer it to the shingles. A template can help when the roofline is consistent, but check measurements frequently because the two slopes may not be perfectly symmetrical.
Keep the cut shingles aligned with the intended roofline and leave the clearance required by the siding, roofing, and trim details. Do not bury cedar shingles beneath roofing materials or trim in a way that blocks drainage or creates a water trap. At the roof-to-wall junction, use compatible flashing and follow the roof and wall system details. The roofing contractor’s flashing detail and the siding manufacturer’s instructions should work together.
Finish the rake with the specified trim or edge detail. The trim must protect exposed edges without sealing in moisture. If trim is installed over the siding, detail its upper and lower ends so water drains out. Use corrosion-resistant fasteners and preserve any required ventilation or drainage openings.
Work Around Windows and Other Openings
Where the gable includes a window, vent, or other opening, integrate flashing with the WRB before shingles cover the wall. Follow the flashing manufacturer’s sequence and the window or vent instructions. Head flashing should direct water over the siding below, while jamb and sill details should manage water at the sides and bottom. Shingles should not obstruct weep openings or ventilation louvers.
Cut shingles neatly around openings and maintain the manufacturer’s required clearances. Avoid small, unsupported pieces at corners. If a cut leaves a piece too narrow to fasten properly, adjust the layout or use an approved trim detail instead. Sealant may be appropriate at specific joints, but it is not a substitute for correctly installed flashing.
Check the Finished Installation
Inspect the gable from the ground and close up. Look for straight courses, consistent exposure, staggered joints, secure fasteners, and clean rake cuts. Replace split or damaged shingles and correct nails that are proud or overdriven. Confirm that flashing is intact and that water can drain at the bottom of the wall and around openings.
Do not apply a coating unless the product manufacturer recommends it and the coating is compatible with the installation. Cedar may weather naturally, while stains or finishes can alter its appearance and maintenance schedule. If a finish is used, follow its preparation and reapplication instructions. Keep gutters clear and trim vegetation away from the wall so the siding can dry after rain.
Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid
- Using roofing instructions for wall siding: Wall assemblies have different WRB, flashing, and drainage needs.
- Skipping flashing or WRB integration: Shingles are a water-shedding layer, not the wall’s only moisture-control system.
- Choosing exposure by guesswork: Follow the shingle manufacturer’s wall-installation specifications.
- Aligning joints between courses: Stagger joints to avoid continuous water paths.
- Driving fasteners too deeply: Overdriven nails can damage shingles and weaken attachment.
- Using incompatible nails: Corroding fasteners can stain cedar and fail prematurely.
- Leaving narrow rake-edge pieces: Plan the layout to retain pieces that can be properly fastened.
- Trapping water behind trim: Preserve drainage paths and use correctly integrated flashing.
When to Consult a Professional
A licensed siding or exterior-remodeling contractor can help when the gable has extensive rot, complex roof-wall intersections, unusual openings, or an existing moisture problem. Professional help is also prudent if the project requires work at significant heights or if the wall assembly’s drainage and ventilation details are unclear. For structural damage, consult an appropriately qualified building professional before covering the area.
Before installation, verify local permit requirements and the adopted building code with the local building department. Useful references include the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau for cedar product guidance, the International Code Council for model-code information, and the Occupational Safety and Health Administration for job-site safety guidance. Product-specific instructions and locally adopted rules should govern the final installation.